Checking in from Davao

Manila and Davao are good rest stops for me....except that I hate crowds, traffic & pollution...

In Manila, I stayed @ Cuz Mike's house with his wife, Grace & my great nephews: Tommy, Maxwell and Morgan. Their house in Quezon City is very beautiful, quiet and large. I mostly ate and slept in late. The opposite of my travels through Kalinga, Mt. Province & Ifugao. I enjoyed being in the provinces and meeting with indigenous artists...walking the terraces sometimes terrified me because I'm scared of heights, but I did it & lost some inches, only to gain it all back @ Micheal's house...too much eating!!!

Now I arrived in Davao today and I'm staying with my other cousin-Cecil Martinez & husband Edgar & family &&& she saw I was still tired & let me take a siesta...&&&& now I'm eating more!!!

Tommorrow I meet with my guides to set my itinerary for Mindanao &&& ALSO- I'll get to see Luanda, who returns from her excursion to Lake Sebu with the other Fulbrighters!

I will write reflections of my tour of the Cordillera Mountains later, but I really think I will be returning there. I found many kindred spirits there...

Quick Report Back

My stay in Lubuagen, Kalinga, was extraordinary! I was blessed to stay with Mr. Cirilio Bawer, who is my new Kalinga friend. He was quite busy preparing for the Centennial of the founding of the Provincial Gov't here & I am very tempted to return for this historic event on August 18th. I visited numerous Kalinga weavers, an elder rattan weaver, a flutemaker and even the rice terrace for field preparations, where I ate & rested while the farmers worked the land...(UNFORTUNATELY, THIS CITY GIRL IS OUT OF SHAPE--SLIPPING & SLIDING ON THE MOUNTAIN TRAILS, WHILE DRAGGING ALONG ALL THE OTHER MOUNTAIN FOLK). The Kalinga are gracious & giving--I received many gifts from them along with a handmade flute which I'll have to learn how to play...tried Kalinga embroidery on the traditional cloth, but was very slow & quite sloppy, especially compared to the 15 year old who was attempting to teach me.

Traveling with Ruel Bimuyag, Ifugao Photographer, and his Kalinga wife, Irene, has been one of the greatest treasures in my life. I am in the midst of cultural bearers who are able to traverse between traditional life in the Cordillera Mountains and modern life in the cities of Baguio, Manila & countries beyond. Meeting the father of Irene is one of my greatest honors in life--a humble man, yet the wisest of teachers, who has given me a glimpse of Kalinga life and the struggles of passing on the Kalinga way of life. I wanted to record every word he uttered so I could remember the wisdom of it, what sticks now is: we must learn to balance everything... & also >>> TO LIVE ONE DAY AT A TIME... something I'd already known, but in the context of the Kalinga, who stopped the building of the Chico River Dam, the meaning has become much more important to me. His family is wonderful...cooking for me each day & so humble--all beautiful from his wife Maria to each of the children. I felt completely at home.

This Sunday we took the bus from Lubuagen to Bontoc, Mt. Province for a quick visit to Bontoc Museum & then on to Sagada, where I am now staying in the house of Villia--a beautiful home on the edge of the cliff overlooking a magical canyon surrounded by mountains from which I am just now watching the Typhoon pass through--mist like, wave after wave of rainfall. We had a great meal-especially her rhubarb pie (yummy-can't just have one piece!) Earlier today I had a pottery workshop with Siegrid here in the Sagada Pottery Studio & was slightly more successful today than yesterday's session with Manong Jessie on hand building.

We leave for Banaue on Thursday--Ifugao territory...yet another adventure.

On meeting artists in Baguio

The adventure continues...hung out in Baguio, mostly with manong Kidlat Tahimik. His home is so cool and I was so blessed to be allowed to spend so much time with him and learn about all of his films and his filmaking process...besides touring around Baguio, I also mostly hung out with my friends Violeta, Jason & Ruel @ VOCAS- Victor Ortesia Community Art Space...viewing films from Japan on the Ainu Wedding & Bear Rituals & a brief excerpt of a film from Okinawa. Met lots of artists @ VOCAS, but also met a few @ Tamanwan Village & the gallery of Ben Hur Villanueva, the Arko ni Apo Gallery.I was blown away by his scultures & was blessed with the opportunity to interview him... One giant sculpture would've been beautiful in my house...oh, well too much $$$ to spend! Read about him here:

http://www.sunstar.com.ph/static/ceb/2004/11/15/life/an.artist.for.others.html

Silly me, while trying to back up photos & half eating my meal, i also met the famous photographer, Tommy Hafalla, who was checking out my images on the computer while we talked...I was so stupid--didn't realize who he was & I asked him does he love black & white photography...DUH!!!! MEANWHILE, Ruel's wife Irene is giggling & laughing & trying to whisper to me that he's famous for his work!!! Nice guy, he mostly documents rituals in Sagada, but also cares for his elderly father here in Baguio. Read about these artists here:

http://www.homegrownart.net/history.htm

Tonight we leave for Kalinga Province & Mountain Province...This is quite a wonderful artistic & spiritual adventure for me!

From Baguio to Naguilian

I took the bus from Baguio to Naguilan, with my friend & photographer Ruel Bimuyag telling the bus driver to get me to Gusing to look for my relatives-Calica, Caluza, Cacdac. They didn't recognize any names till they asked: Hulog? & my response of yes let them know it was ok...once in Naguilan the drivers told the bicycle driver to bring me to Gusing...where we commenced to go from house to house looking for maybe 1 1/2 hours. back & forth in North & South Gusing... (ok-never write things on loose paper... I kept loosing my info...) Finally, someone remembered a married lady in Tuddingan who used to be Calica...When I got there we showed the photo to Manang Lilia, who explained, "This is my Auntie Mary!" THANK GOD!!! She told me that Grandpa Pedro, the brother of Grandma Mary was still alive, but Grandma Sinang had died in December. & we went to Bagulin to see him...the driver laughing all the way that we had finally found my relatives! I had to tell her about both Uncle Ben & Uncle Gary & I was sobbing in the bicycle cab & even sobbing more when I finally saw Grandpa Pedro, sitting on his chair in front of his home in Bagulin. The driver, Lola Lilia Calica Cabacungan & all the relatives laughing about the story of the American who spoke no Illocano looking for her relatives in Gusing & going back & forth, here & there, with everyone following along & going from house to find out where the relatives were! (ok-so of course i had all the relatives laughing about this for two days!)

Next day to the farm that grandma & grandpa bought-another adventure across a hanging bridge & a small trail where i fell twice on the slippery ground before arriving 2 km. to see the farm. Returned to Baguio that eve with Manang Pia & her family. I will post photos later...off to merienda (ok-now i'm really FAT!!!)